To reduce administrative complexities for all athletes, USA Climbing is delaying the implementation of the Transgender Athlete Participation Policy. Athletes may continue to compete in the gender category aligning with their identity. USA Climbing remains dedicated to ensuring an inclusive and fair competitive environment for all. We will release an updated policy in the coming weeks.
SANTIAGO, Chile (Oct. 24, 2023) – Natalia Grossman (Boulder, CO) climbed with confidence and poise from the first boulder and on through the lead wall, to take gold at the Pan American Games in Santiago. With the medal, came the ultimate prize of a spot on Team USA for the Paris 2024 Olympics. USA Climbing teammate Brooke Raboutou (Boulder, CO) took silver, 12 points back. In the final event of sport climbing’s debut at the Pan American Games, Canadian Alannah Yip took the bronze with Anastasia Sanders (Fort Worth, TX) finishing fourth. In the boulders, Grossman came out strong and smooth, topping each of the first three, accumulating 84.3 points – a 14.9 point margin over Raboutou. “As soon as I did the first boulder, I was like, ‘okay, game on – let’s do this!’” said Grossman. “And I think it just set up my round really nicely.” Grossman was strong throughout the boulder round. Raboutou, after missing the top on boulder one, kept pace through the final three. Heading over to the lead wall, Grossman needed to falter and Raboutou needed the climb of her life. Raboutou would climb last. Grossman hit the wall smiling, climbing with purpose. She had one notable challenge but kept powering forward. “There was one point midway where I almost fell,” she said. “I hit a hold with my finger, like it got stuck. But I was able to recompose.” Once she crested to the upper reaches of the wall her confidence really kicked in. “Once I was on the headwall and got to the 60 point, I was like, ‘okay, I really want to get as high as I can.’ And it’s easier for me to fight once I’m on the headwall because it becomes more technical. And I feel I was able to do that.” With Grossman having hit the 60 point mark, the odds were stacked against Raboutou. She attacked the wall with a vengeance, advancing up onto the headwall with the crowd solidly behind her, passing Grossman’s top mark before her climb ended. “My goal on the lead climb was to fight as hard as I could,” said Raboutou. “And I can’t be too upset because I did that.” As hard as she climbed, finishing second took an emotional toll. “I have a lot of feelings right now,” said Raboutou. “This is a hard competition. As excited as I am to be on the podium, it’s an Olympic qualifier and it was only the winner who goes. We all knew this would be pretty devastating for the second place person. Natalia and I have worked very hard and are at a similar level. We knew it would be a battle between us.” For USA Climbing Head Coach Josh Larson, it came down to little things. “Tonight was a night of little mistakes making the difference,” he said. “When we came into this event, I knew that it was either one of them taking this spot. And it was really going to come down to a very small mistake. And that’s what happened. And it was really hard to catch up to that mistake on Brooke’s end. But Brooke climbed that route really, really, really well – she climbed it exceptionally. The best climber on the route tonight!” Grossman attributed her level of confidence and her success to changes in her own training program over the past few months. “With Natalia, we focused a little bit more on lead,” said Larson. “But I think the ultimate thing we focused on was just with each training session each day, just really being present in that day – not really thinking about what’s coming up or what we did yesterday. We’re really, really present-moment thinking. And we trained more lead because we knew that lead meant a lot in this.” Like her three teammates who had clinched Paris 2024 spots in the previous days, Grossman was ecstatic but using the time to reflect. “My feelings are just like gratitude and joy for all those people who have been a part of my journey,” she said, “and those who have just been there with me these past few months. I changed a lot up in my life and in training. And to see it pay off, it feels incredible.” Raboutou still has a very viable pathway to Paris 2024 through the Olympic Qualifying Series next spring. She needs to finish in the top 10 overall across the two events – in Budapest and Shanghai – to get a shot at the Olympics. WOMEN’S BOULDER & LEAD Oct. 24, 2023 1. Natalia Grossman (Boulder, CO) 172.4 (84.3, 88.1) 2. Brooke Raboutou (Boulder, CO) 165.4 (69.4, 96.3) 3. Alannah Yip, Canada 128.7 (64.7, 64.4) 4. Anastasia Sanders (Fort Worth, TX) 115.1 (39.0, 76.1) 5. Alejandra Contreras, Chile 91.5 (34.5, 57.0) USA CLIMBING PAN AM MEDALISTS Women’s Speed Gold – Piper Kelly Silver – Emma Hunt Men’s Speed Gold – Sam Watson Silver – Noah Bratschi Men’s Boulder & Lead Gold – Jesse Grupper Silver – Sean Bailey Bronze – Zach Galla Women’s Boulder & Lead Gold – Natalia Grossman Silver – Brooke Raboutou
SANTIAGO, Chile (Oct. 22, 2023) – Sam Watson (Southlake, TX) sped to a stunning victory to take gold in speed climbing at the Pan American Games, winning a close finals battle with teammate Noah Batschi (Potomac, MD) Sunday night in Santiago. The 17-year-old climber set a strong pace at 5.37 seconds to also clinch a spot on Team USA at Paris 2024. It was a virtual repeat of the scenario from 24 hours earlier when Piper Kelly (Indianapolis, IN) defeated teammate Emma Hunt (Woodstock, GA). Kelly clinched a Paris 2024 spot with the win, while Hunt had claimed her ticket in August at World Championships. Watson had an emotional reunion with his family backstage following the medals ceremony, with tears of joy for the young Texan climbing star who came out of the Dallas Team Texas climbing program. “I feel great – I feel like this is the culmination of my entire process that I’ve been working on,” Watson said. “It’s been a huge, huge deal for the past three years now.” Speed climbing made its debut at Tokyo 2020, with a single event that combined bouldering, lead climbing and speed climbing all in one. When the Paris 2024 program was announced, speed was separated out allowing specialists like Watson an opportunity at a medal event. Friends and teammates meeting in a final heat is always emotional. Despite falling to Watson in the finale, Bratschi commended his teammate. “It was a good race – I was pushing my hardest,” he said. “I know Sam was trying his hardest, too, and so he just came down to who had the best race.” The difference came down to small things in a sport that has become, literally, one of the very fastest across all sports – faster than the 100 meter dash. “You know, all the pieces were in place,” said Bratschi. “Just a small mistake – and that’s just what happens in speed. You can be prepared and you can just make one tiny mistake and then you don’t win. But that being said, I tried my hardest. So I don’t regret that mistake. “I did my best.” Head Speed Manager Matt Madisson was beaming after seeing four medals and two new tickets to Paris 2024. But he was especially proud of Watson. “Sam has something inside of him, and it burns brightly,” said Madisson. “So he is on top of. I think he’s been on the top of everyone’s list, not least of all his parents. With the huge support that they give him, he can really attack his training as much as he possibly can. He can dedicate himself to the sport. And that’s what really matters. And the professionalism that we see from him is going to get him a long way in life, and not just in speed climbing.” Watson became the fourth USA Climbing athlete to qualify for Paris. Colin Duffy (Broomfield, CO) grabbed a spot from World Championships in boulder-lead, and now with Watson, Kelly and Hunt all qualifying in speed. USA Climbing is expected to contend for spots in both men’s and women’s boulder-lead on Monday and Tuesday. The final qualifying opportunity will be in the IOC’s Olympic Qualifier Series in Budapest and Shanghai next spring. “I’m extraordinarily proud of all of my teammates, especially Noah,” Watson said. “I know he’s worked very, very hard and I would rather not race anyone else in the end. “He’s worked so hard and he has overcome a lot of obstacles.” Watson and Bratschi are among a group of speed climbers who have been training with Madisson at USA Climbing’s home in Salt Lake City, Utah. Kelly, Hunt, Sophia Curcio and John Brosler are also among the group spending time training in Utah. While the women’s Olympic quota is now full for USA Climbing, Bratschi and Brosler will now set their sights on preparation for the Olympic Qualifying Series next spring. Brosler slipped in his ⅛-finals match, and was knocked out. “We’re going to be taking a very solid team to OQS,” said Madison. “We’re already putting their plans together. They will really show what’s possible. “We have a really good chance of getting another athlete in and filling our quota.” Action continues in the Pan American Games with the men’s boulder-lead final Monday evening at Parque Cerrillos. Only one Olympic spot remains for USA Climbing’s men, with any of the three entrants in the finals capable of grabbing it – Sean Bailey (Shoreline, WA), Zach Galla (Atlanta, GA) and Jesse Grupper (Atlanta, GA). Finals begin at 6:00 pm Santiago time (5:00 pm EDT). MEN’S SPEED CLIMBING Oct. 22, 2023 1. Sam Watson (Southlake, TX) 5.37 seconds 2. Noah Bratschi (Potomac, MD) 5.96 3. Carlos Granja, Ecuador 5,52 4. Ethan Flynn-Pitcher, Canada 5.59
Piper Kelly (left) won gold and secured a trip to Paris 2024 with teammate Emma Hunt. (Slobodan Miskovic) SANTIAGO, Chile (Oct. 21, 2023) – In a dramatic finish to what was a crazy evening of speed climbing, Indianapolis native Piper Kelly stormed to a gold medal at the Pan American Games in Santiago, with it clinching an Olympic berth for Paris 2024. Right behind Kelly, winning silver, was teammate Emma Hunt (Woodstock, GA ), who had already sealed her spot two months ago at World Championships. It was the biggest victory of Kelly’s career, setting a personal best competition time of 7.52 seconds. It came in an emotional event where all three U.S. women had a shot at gold. In the first semifinal, Hunt went up against Ecuador’s Andrea Rojas and took the win to move on. The other semifinal heat was all Team USA, ensuring that either Kelly or teammate Sophia Curcio (Charlotte, NC ) a shot at the Paris qualifying slot. Kelly took the win to set up the matchup with Hunt for gold. With their two Olympic berths already sealed going into the final, Hunt had a false start ending her bid. Kelly, meanwhile, took her final run setting the personal best. “I had a really great training block leading up to Pan Am Games,” said Kelly. “I actually moved to Utah to train for this about six weeks ago. The training was going really, really well so I knew I could do it. But speed climbing has a very low margin of error – I knew it still was not going to be easy. I’m just really excited to have gotten it done and performed.” Hunt went out on a false start in the finals with the smallest possible mathematic margin, just one hundredth off the threshold. She and Kelly shared emotions after the event with the two knowing they had both clinched Olympic spots. “I’m so excited because I get to have someone on this adventure with me,” Hunt said. “It’s so cool that we filled the quota.” The one, two, four finish was emblematic of the progression the team has been making. “Coming into this we’d all gone through a lot of preparation with the athletes on and off the wall,” said USA Climbing Speed Team Manager Matthew Maddison. “So the expectations were high! We’re very proud of the team that we’ve put together over the last few years.” Maddison also recognized Curcio, who is just 17, for her showing. “Kudos to Sophia for doing so well and keeping her head high,” he added. “I know that she will continue to do well into the future.” Kelly also spoke to the bigger picture about the enthusiasm for the sport globally, its debut in the Pan American Games and growing interest in America. “It’s really exciting to see the direction that climbing is going, but also that the direction that Team USA is going. We are really putting in the work back at home to make sure we have the resources and the training that we need, so that when we get here, we can perform and do our best and show the benefits of all the hard work that we’ve done.” The USA has now clinched both women’s quota spots in speed climbing, while Colin Duffy (Broomfield, CO) secured his boulder-lead spot at the World Championships in August. Sunday’s program will open in the morning with women’s boulder and lead semifinals, capping off in the evening with the men’s speed finals.
The XIX Pan American Games are scheduled to take place from October 20th to November 5th, 2023 in the Chilean capital of Santiago. As the largest multi-sport event in the Americas, over 6,800 athletes will participate in the Games, competing in 38 different sports. Sport Climbing will make its debut appearance at the Pan American Games in 2023, after a vote by the LVIII General Assembly of Panam Sports secured the sport’s position on the programme. Olympic Qualification Event This year the Pan American Games will also serve as an Olympic qualification event for sport climbing. With two (2) qualification spots available for the boulder/lead combined and speed events, the top male and female athletes in each discipline will earn their spot to compete at the 2024 Olympic games in Paris. (unless said top athlete has already qualified, in which case, the next highest placed athlete will receive the qualification) While one of the US Pan American team members, Emma Hunt, secured her Olympic qualification at the 2023 World Championships earlier this year, the rest of the team will be vying for their chance to secure their spot in Paris. Click Here to learn more about our 2023 Pan American team members. Number of qualifying spots: Speed – 1 Male / 1 Female Boulder/Lead – 1 Male / 1 Female US Team Roster Women’s Speed Team: – Sophia Curcio / Age: 17 / Charlotte, NC. – Emma Hunt / Age: 20 / Hometown: Woodstock, GA. – Piper Kelly / Age: 24 / Hometown: Indianapolis, IN. Men’s Speed Team: – Noah Bratschi / Age: 23 / Hometown: Potomac, MD. – John Brosler / Age: 26 / Hometown: Plano, TX. – Samuel Watson / Age: 17 / Hometown: Southlake, TX. Women’s Boulder & Lead Team: – Natalia Grossman / Age: 22 / Hometown: Boulder, CO. – Brooke Raboutou / Age: 22 / Hometown: Boulder, CO. – Anastasia Sanders / Age: 16 / Hometown: Fort Worth, TX. Men’s Boulder & Lead Team: – Sean Bailey / Age: 27/ Hometown: Shoreline, WA. – Zach Galla / Age: 23 / Hometown: Atlanta, GA. – Jesse Grupper / Age: 26 / Hometown: Upper Montclair, NJ How to Watch! The 2023 Pan American Games in Santiago will be streamed live on the PANAM Sports Channel! Fans will be able to watch broadcast coverage of all climbing events free of charge via the PANAM Sports Channel, as well as on the Panam Sports Channel TV and Mobile Apps available on Adroid and iOS. Check out the event schedule below and set your reminders to tune in! Event Schedule (Eastern Time Zone): Saturday, 21 October: 9:00am Men’s Boulder & Lead semi-final, Boulder round 12:30pm Men’s Boulder & Lead semi-final, Lead round 6:00pm Women’s Speed qualification 6:50pm Women’s Speed final Sunday, 22 October: 9:00am Women’s Boulder & Lead semi-final, Boulder round 12:30pm Women’s Boulder & Lead semi-final, Lead round 6:00pm Men’s Speed qualification 6:55pm Men’s Speed final Monday, 23 October: 5:05pm Men’s Boulder & Lead Final, Boulder round 7:13pm Men’s Boulder & Lead Final, Lead round Tuesday, 24 October: 5:05pm Women’s Boulder & Lead – Boulder Final 7:12pm Women’s Boulder & Lead final – Lead Final
Salt Lake City, UT. – October 9, 2023 – Outside Interactive, Inc., the world’s leading creator of active lifestyle content, services, events, and experiences, and USA Climbing today announced a strategic partnership that includes live broadcast coverage of the 2023 YETI Climbing National Championships that take place October 12-15, 2023 and will be streamed on Outside Watch (watch.outsideonline.com). In addition, the USA Climbing 2023 National Team Trials events will find a new home on Outside’s digital streaming platforms including Climbing.com, Outside’s destination for the climbing community. The collaboration, born out of a shared passion for adventure, athleticism, and community, seeks to bring a greater exposure to the world of competitive climbing in the United States. This strategic alliance will leverage the strengths of both entities: Outside, a renowned leader in outdoor media including Climbing.com, which will also provide coverage of the events and the athletes, and USA Climbing, the national governing body for competitive climbing in the United States. By uniting their expertise, resources, and passion for the sport, this partnership promises to bring significant positive impacts to climbers of all levels and foster the continued growth of climbing as a popular and accessible activity. “We are beyond excited to join forces with USA Climbing,” said Outside’s CEO, Robin Thurston. “Together, we have a tremendous opportunity to amplify the sport’s reach and inspire millions to embrace the thrill of climbing. Our shared values of promoting competitive adventure and fostering community connections will undoubtedly drive this partnership to new heights.” CEO of USA Climbing, Marc Norman, expressed equal enthusiasm for the collaboration, stating, “This partnership represents a milestone for the climbing community in the United States. With Outside’s exceptional media prowess and our organization’s commitment to fostering excellence in climbing, we are poised to make a lasting impact on the sport we all love.” As the partnership unfolds, it will certainly serve as a stepping stone toward greater exposure for the sport and unique content for the climbing community. To view the 2023 YETI Climbing National Championships, go to Outside Watch. About Outside Outside Interactive, Inc. is the premier destination for active lifestyle enthusiasts and home to leading brands in the endurance sports, outdoor, and healthy living spaces. Each month, Outside reaches 80 million of the most active consumers in the world across its 25+ media, digital, and technology platforms, creating an experience for both longtime adventurers and those just getting started. Outside’s mission is to get everyone outdoors, experiencing healthy, connected, and fulfilling lives. Outside’s membership offering, Outside+, bundles best-in-class storytelling, meal plans, gear reviews, GPS mapping, online courses, discounted event access, magazines, access to NASTAR courses, and more. Learn more at OutsideInc.com. About USA Climbing USA Climbing is the national governing body for competitive climbing in the United States, supporting athletes, coaches, and events across the country. As a nonprofit organization, USA Climbing’s mission is to promote the growth and development of climbing while advocating for the sport’s values of inclusivity, sportsmanship, and environmental responsibility. ### Outside Press Contact: Andrea Kupfer, Vice President Outside Interactive Inc. PR@outsideinc.com USA Climbing Media Contact: Ben Lowe Director of Marketing and Communications USA Climbing Email: Ben@usaclimbing.org Phone: 801-618-0740