Board of Directors Provides Direction on Transgender Athlete Participation Policy

In December 2023, USA Climbing paused its Transgender Athlete Participation (TAP) Policy to allow the Board of Directors to engage in discussion with members of the trans, nonbinary, and/or intersex community. In addition, USA Climbing launched a survey soliciting member feedback on transgender participation, hosted listening sessions, and formed a policy revision group.

The Board of Directors weighed multiple perspectives extensively over a year of community engagement, culminating in a meeting on January 8 to discuss and vote on transgender athlete participation. The Board was polled anonymously to establish consensus for the various components of the policy and direction on applicability to participation.

This direction has been provided to the TAP policy revision group now tasked with writing a draft policy that will be brought to the Board for feedback and approval. The final policy is expected to be announced this spring, with implementation for the 2025-2026 competition season. There will be no impact on the 2024-2025 competition season.

The Board voted for the following as it relates to transgender athlete participation:

Please note that athletes who are not eligible to compete for the United States in IFSC-sanctioned competitions will be referred to below as “National Team Ineligible”. This includes transgender athletes who do not comply with the current IFSC policy found here.

Youth Series

  • All athletes will be allowed to participate in all categories of the Youth Series and at all levels of competition, in addition to the Youth Recreational Series.
  • For Youth categories U17 and above:
    • Where National Team Ineligible athletes are within the range of advancement for rounds, competitions, or the US National and Development Teams, additional eligible athletes will be advanced.
    • National Team Ineligible athletes are not eligible for the US National and Development Teams, however, they can qualify for other Team benefits.

Collegiate Series

  • All athletes will be allowed to participate in the Intermediate category.
  • Transgender athletes who are not in compliance with IFSC policy will not be allowed to participate in the Advanced category.

Elite Series

  • National Team Ineligible athletes will not be allowed to participate in the Elite Series National Championships and National Team Trials.
  • National Team Ineligible athlete participation in North American Cup Series events is pending further review by participating federations.

Paraclimbing Series

  • All athletes will be allowed to participate in non-qualifying and non-selection events in the Paraclimbing Series.
  • National Team Ineligible athletes will not be allowed to participate in Paraclimbing National Championships or other events that qualify for National Championships.

The Board will continue to monitor IFSC, Federal, and State regulations while consulting with the US Olympic and Paralympic Committee in considering future measures.

The current status of the TAP policy, as well as policy resources, can be found on the Transgender Athlete Participation page of the USA Climbing website.

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