Back to News USA Climbing believes that every athlete should be allowed to compete in a respectful, safe, and harassment-free environment. USA Climbing also believes that every athlete should be allowed to participate in fair competition where no competitor has a disproportionate advantage over another. After consultation with various USA Climbing stakeholders, careful review of scientific and inclusion literature, and thoughtful discussions among the Board and staff, the USA Climbing Board of Directors voted unanimously to approve updates to the Transgender Athlete Participation Policy. The updated policy continues to foster openness in participation for athletes in USA Climbing Non-International Track competitions, while implementing parameters to ensure fairness in competition at the International-Track level. The topic of transgender athlete participation has been studied and debated extensively by national and international sports organizations in recent years. USA Climbing’s participation policy changes are not unique. For example, the new standard regarding the permitted level of testosterone nanomoles per liter (nmol/L) in an athlete is in line with recent policy changes made by other national governing bodies and international sport federations. Under the new standard, athletes assigned the male sex at birth competing in the female category in International-Track competitions must maintain a testosterone level of less than 5 nmol/L for 12 months prior to competition and for as long as the athlete wishes to maintain eligibility to compete in a female category. USA Climbing urges athletes and coaches to read the updated Transgender Athlete Participation Policy and be familiar with rules and procedures regarding anti-doping and therapeutic use exemptions, including: United States Anti-Doping Agency (USADA) rules and policies World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) rules and policies Therapeutic Use Exemption (TUE) rules and requirements Looking to the future, USA Climbing will continue to review its policy periodically with an eye to new scientific and medical knowledge related to gender diversity and athletic performance. The organization is committed to continued discussion on transgender participation in sport to ensure access to participation as well as fairness in competition. Marc Norman President & CEO USA Climbing Kate Felsen Di Pietro Chair USA Climbing Board of Directors