The USA’s Top Speed Climbers Train at Speed Camp in Salt Lake City

This past weekend, 24 of the country’s best Speed Climbing athletes came together in Salt Lake City, Utah for USA Climbing’s Speed Training Camp. Led by Matthew Maddison, USAC Speed Team Manager and Strength and Conditioning Coach, the camp offered valuable lessons both on and off the 15-meter wall.

Photo by Phuc Nguyen

On the wall, the athletes had the unique opportunity to race, pace, and refine alongside teammates from all over the United States. Off the wall, the athletes learned from coaches like Maddison, as well as Zach DiCristino, USAC Medical Manager and National Team Physical Therapist; Olexiy Shulga, Head Coach of Stone Summit Climbing Team; and multiple officials from the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee.

Photo by Patrick Bodnar

“It was really cool to include things that are often overlooked but are hugely important, like strength and conditioning and nutrition,” said Piper Kelly, who recently punched her ticket to the Paris 2024 Olympic Games at the Pan American Games in Santiago, Chile. “This was also my first opportunity to practice the Olympic format, and it is always fun to race with teammates and push each other to go faster.”

Photo by Patrick Bodnar

“Having these athletes come together as a group, training on and off the wall with a smile, is always a highlight.” said Maddison. “Engagement with other fellow athletes about how they are planning their training blocks wouldn’t happen without these camps, and it’s great to teach all of these athletes, not just the World Cup team, about aspects of speed climbing and off-wall programming that will help with long-term development.”

As a reminder, three of the camp’s athletes (Emma Hunt, Piper Kelly, and Sam Watson) have already qualified for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Additionally, two of the camp’s athletes (John Brosler and Zach Hammer) are qualified for the Olympic Qualifier Series, hoping to secure their spots later this year. You can stay up to date with climbing at the Olympics here.

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