December 17, 2025

Today USA Climbing is releasing a new Competition Eligibility Policy. Over the past two years USA Climbing worked closely with the trans and nonbinary community to create a policy that provided avenues for participation in USA Climbing sanctioned competitions. However, in September the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee required National Governing Bodies (USA Climbing) to comply with federal mandates, including Executive Order 14201 and the Ted Stevens Olympic and Amateur Sports Act.

We know and regret that this new requirement and policy will significantly impact trans female athletes and their families in our community, as well as their opportunities to compete in USA Climbing sanctioned events. This step is about compliance with outside mandates, not a reflection of our values or the policy we were working on implementing. We remain committed to the inclusion of all USA Climbing members despite the constraints of this policy.

We invite our members to read the full policy and accompanying documents below.

Competition Eligibility Policy

Competition Eligibility Process 

Competition Eligibility Petition

USOPC Athlete Safety Policies

Executive Order 14201

Ted Stevens Olympic and Amateur Sports Act

When will the policy go into effect?

The policy takes effect on December 17, 2025. After that date, the requirements outlined in the policy will apply fully, regardless of an individual’s status under any prior USA Climbing or IFSC policy.

Can anyone challenge a competitor’s eligibility?

Only USA Climbing has the authority to initiate a formal review of a competitor’s eligibility to compete in the Female category. USA Climbing members do not have standing to directly challenge another competitor’s eligibility.

USA Climbing members in good standing may submit a petition to the USA Climbing CEO or Chief of Sport requesting that USA Climbing consider initiating a review. USA Climbing has no obligation to do so nor a requirement to respond to the petitioner other than it has received the petition.

USA Climbing does not accept anonymous petitions and may take action against members who submit egregious or malicious petitions. 

What documentation are female competitors required to submit during membership or event registration?

When applying for membership or registering for a USA Climbing-sanctioned event in the Female Category, an individual represents and warrants to USA Climbing that they are female. This representation creates a rebuttable presumption that the individual’s sex assigned at birth was female.

No additional documentation is required unless USA Climbing chooses to challenge this presumption.

Why was the Male category changed to Male / Open?

The Male Category has been renamed the Male / Open Category to ensure that any individual, regardless of sex assigned at birth, may compete in USA Climbing-sanctioned events.

Why was the Medical Review Panel created?

The Medical Review Panel was created to allow qualified medical experts to review accepted petitions and complex cases and determine a competitor’s eligibility.