Routesetting Clinics

About
As part of the USA Climbing Routesetting Clinic and Certification program, USAC organizes Level 1 and Level 2 clinics for routesetters across the country.

Routesetting Clinics
The USA Climbing Level 1 Routesetting Clinic teaches participants basic proficiency of routesetting fundamentals and basic skills for competition routesetting. Successful participants will receive a Level 1 Certification.  The Participation Fee is $300, and all participants must have an active USAC Routesetter Annual Membership ($70). Beginner and experienced routesetters alike are welcomed if they have 6 months or more routesetting experience and can work V3 or 5.10.

Level 2 Routesetting Clinic
The USA Climbing Level 2 Routesetting Clinic teaches and tests participants’ knowledge of on-sight routesetting and other skills necessary to set effectively for Championship level events.  There is a competitive application process for Level 2 Clinics and to be considered, applicants should have significant competition Routesetting experience, Chief Routesetter experience, and must be able to work V7 and 5.13.  Successful participants will receive Level 2 Certification, having gained experience that can contribute to their effective work at Regional competitions, and are then eligible to apply for official Divisional or National Internships.  The Participation Fee is $550, and all participants must have an active USAC Routesetter Annual Membership ($70).

Schedule

Schedule
This page lists all currently scheduled USA Climbing Routesetting Clinics.  Please read below for more information and registration details for each clinic.  Please review the Level 1 and Level 2 Clinic descriptions and pre-requisites on the Certification page before registering or applying for a clinic.  Additional clinics may be scheduled for later in the year in various regions. If you are interested in hosting a clinic at your facility, please visit our hosting page. Contact Mike Bockino at routesetting@usaclimbing.org with any questions.

Level 1 Clinic open for registration
Location:  Latitude Climbing and Fitness Norfolk VA

Dates:  Dec 7/8

Cost:  $300

Registration is through Sport 80 and is on a first come first served basis. Setters participating in the clinic must purchase a Level 1 routesetter membership to take part in the Level 1 Clinic.

Any questions can be directed to the Routesetting Program Manager Mike Bockino at mike@usaclimbing.org.

Hosting

Hosting Overview
Our goal is to provide clinic instruction to routesetters throughout the US and in as many regions as possible. To do this we need great host facility partners. If you are interested in hosting a USA Climbing Routesetting Clinic, please see below or email routesetting@usaclimbing.org

Hosting a Level 1 Clinic
A Level 1 Clinic is ideal for regular hosts of USA Climbing QE or higher-level competitions.  To host a Level 1 Clinic, a host facility must have significant roped and bouldering terrain, sufficient for hosting bouldering and Lead/TR local climbing competitions.  It is most common for a Level 1 Clinic to have 15 – 20 participants and the best host facilities will typically be larger climbing gyms, those that regularly host USA Climbing competitions at various levels.

There is no host fee for a Level 1 Clinic.  The host facility provides the climbing terrain and additional space for dedicated use during the typical 9am – 5pm schedule of the two day clinic and must be willing and able to accommodate up to 20 total routesetters.  Basic requirements we look for in terms of facility hosts include:

·      up to 20 individual route lines each a minimum of 24’ tall (ideal is 30’ – 40’) and with variety of top-rope and lead terrain.

·      Approximately 120 linear feet of bouldering terrain with space needed for up to 20 routesetters to work simultaneously.

Benefits to Host Facility

·      Host facility routesetters can participate in a Level 1 Clinic in their own gym without any cost of travel.  Successful participants will receive a Level 1 Certification.

·      The facility’s routesetters will benefit from the work of the other clinic participants who have diverse backgrounds and represent many gyms from around the country.

·      For new climbing facilities, hosting a Level 1 Clinic can be an excellent opportunity to create a positive learning environment for intermediate experience level routesetters at their new gym. It can also provide ownership and management a chance to see the work of routesetters within the structured environment of a clinic.

·      There will typically be 15-20 routes and between 20- 30 boulder problems set during the Level 1 Clinic.  Many host facilities will schedule clinics specifically in the context of their regular rotation, use the clinic to refresh the start of a new round of routesetting, or use the routes and/or boulder problems from the clinic for youth competitive training.

Hosting Details

HOSTING A LEVEL 2 CLINIC
Level 2 Clinics are held 4 times per year at host facilities determined by USAC, based on their location, facility details and past experience hosting USAC Championship competitions or other clinics.

As with the Level 1 Clinic, there is no host fee, but the facility must provide the adequate terrain needed for the clinic and then can select one or two of their own routesetters to participate in the clinic.  This is determined after review with the RCCP Administrator during clinic scheduling.  The individual routesetter(s) are selected by the host facility directly and do not have to apply but must register for the clinic itself as all other setters, and each must also have or purchase the $70 USAC Routesetter Membership.  All other routesetters apply for the clinic directly through USAC and will be selected by the Chief Instructor, Assistant Instructor(s) and in consultation with the RCCP Administrator.

The basic terrain details outlined above in the Level 1 section also apply to Level 2 Clinics; in addition, access to a space adequate for presentations, and use of a TV or projector. We review the quality of the overall facility terrain and gym amenities on a case-by-case basis. An active youth climbing team at the host facility that we may coordinate with is a huge factor as they are an integral part of the learning process.

Benefits to Host Facility

·       Host facility may select at least one but no more than two local routesetters to participate in the Level 2 clinic.  This routesetter must already have Level 1 Certification and meet the minimum standards for participation.  Successful participants will receive a Level 2 Certification.

·       High instructor to participant ratio (1:6) results in more hands-on time for routesetters and specific feedback following the clinic experience for each routesetter.

·       There will be 12 routes and between 24 – 36 boulder problems set during the Level 2 Clinic.

How to Schedule
USAC Routesetting Clinics are scheduled through the Routesetting Clinic and Certification Program Administrator, Mike Bockino.  Level 1 Clinics can generally be scheduled at any time convenient for the host facility and based on the Chief Instructor’s availability.  We will work with a host’s ideal schedule planning, in consideration of whether we determine sufficient interest in the region and based on the timing of the clinic, and the overall schedule of all other Level 1 Clinics.  We try to schedule all clinics a minimum of 3 months in advance to provide time for USAC to announce and advertise, and for individual participants to register, or in the case of Level 2 Clinics, for individual participants to apply and their applications to be reviewed.

Level 2 Clinics are only scheduled at host facilities that are Championship level competition hosts, and after significant review and planning in the context of the overall yearly schedule of clinics.

Instructors
USAC Chief Instructors are all Level 5 Certified Routesetters with decades of combined experience and Assistant Instructors have worked at numerous national events and are also typically Chief Routesetters in commercial facilities.

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