Routesetting Clinics

About
As part of the USA Climbing Routesetting Clinic and Certification program, USAC organizes Level 1 and Level 2 clinics for routesetters across the country. Prior to registration, all setters attending routesetting clinics must have a USA Climbing “Certified” Routesetter membership. It is highly recommended that setters attending clinics have experience moving up and down ropes for routesetting and some knowledge of safety systems.

Clinic Prerequisites can be found here: Routesetting Resources

Level 1 Routesetting Clinic
The USA Climbing Level 1 Routesetting Clinic teaches basic routesetting fundamentals and basic skills for competition routesetting. Successful participants will receive a Level 1 Certification. The Participation Fee is $500, and all participants must have an active USAC Routesetter Annual Membership ($100). Beginner and experienced routesetters alike are welcomed if they have 6 months or more of professional routesetting experience and can work V4 and 5.12. Minimum age to participate in a routesetting clinic with USA Climbing is 16.

Note: this clinic is not intended for setters looking to increase their commercial routesetting experience. It is intended for those who wish to progress through the Routesetting Clinic Certification Program and is catered fully to competition routesetting.

Level 2 Routesetting Clinic
The USA Climbing Level 2 Routesetting Clinic teaches and tests participants’ knowledge of on-sight routesetting and other skills necessary to act as Head Routesetter (HRS) at Qualification Events (QE) and act as assistant routesetter at Regional or Divisional Championships. There is a competitive application process for Level 2 Clinics and to be considered, applicants should have significant competition Routesetting experience, HRS experience, and must be able to forerun V7 and 5.13. Successful participants will receive Level 2 Certification and be able to act as HRS for USA Climbing Youth Qualification Events.

The Participation Fee is $1000, and all participants must have an active USAC Routesetter Annual Membership ($100).

Schedule

This page lists all currently scheduled USA Climbing Routesetting Clinics. Please read below for more information and registration details for each clinic.

Level 1 Clinic Schedule:

Rendezvous Climbing Gym, KS April 14/15, Instructors TBD

Sportrock Alexandria, VA SRPI May 20/21, Head Instructor Nic Oklobzija, assistant instructor Chris LoCrasto

Mesa Rim Austin, TX August 7/8, Head Instructor Aaron Davis, assistant instructor Blake Green

Freestone Climbing Missoula, MT August 9/10, Head Instructor Molly Beard, assistant instructor Roy Quanstrom

These clinics are all available for registration in Sport80 until they are filled to their capacity.

Cost: $500

Any questions can be directed to the Routesetting Program Manager Jeremy Ho at jeremy@usaclimbing.org.

Level 2 Clinics application period is closed.  All selected applicants will be notified by Jan 31.

January 17-19, 2025 | Portland Rock Gym Beaverton OR, Head Instructor Mike Bockino, assistant Molly Beard and Augy Cohn

April 15-17, 2025 | Central Rock Gyms Boston Area, MA, Head Instructor Jeremy Ho, assistant Cody Grodzki

October 1-3 2025 |Movement Training Center and Plano, Head instructor Aaron Davis, assistant Sarah Filler

October 8-10 2025 | Mesa Rim Austin, Head Instructor John Oungst, assistant Jeremy Hardin

To apply, fill out the form here.

Cost: $1000

Registration is through Sport 80 and is based on an application process.

Hosting

Overview
Our goal is to provide clinic instruction to routesetters throughout the US and in as many regions as possible. To do this we need great host facility partners. If you are interested in hosting a USA Climbing Routesetting Clinic, please fill out this form: Clinic Interest Form

Hosting a Level 1 Clinic
A Level 1 Clinic is ideal for regular hosts of USA Climbing QE or higher-level competitions. To host a Level 1 Clinic, a host facility must have significant bouldering terrain, wood volumes, fiberglass macros and mix of wall angles suitable for a bouldering QE. It is most common for a Level 1 Clinic to have 15 – 20 participants and the best host facilities will typically be larger climbing gyms, those that regularly host USA Climbing competitions at various levels.

There is no host fee for a Level 1 Clinic. The host facility provides the climbing terrain and additional space for dedicated use during the typical 9am – 5pm schedule of the two day clinic and must be willing and able to accommodate up to 20 total routesetters. Basic requirements of host facility include:

  • Approximately 120 linear feet of bouldering terrain with space needed for up to 20 routesetters to work simultaneously.
  • A conference or party room with tables and chairs to accommodate up to 22 people.
  • Variety of hold brands, good selection of wood volumes and fiberglass holds
  • Modern wall design, preferred no concrete walls, must be able to accept screw on holds

Benefits to Host Facility

·      Host facility routesetters can participate in a Level 1 Clinic in their own gym without any cost of travel.  Successful participants will receive a Level 1 Certification.  Host facility also gets 2 setters into the clinic free of charge.

·      The facility’s routesetters will benefit from the work of the other clinic participants who have diverse backgrounds and represent many gyms from around the country.

·      For new climbing facilities, hosting a Level 1 Clinic can be an excellent opportunity to create a positive learning environment for intermediate experience level routesetters at their new gym. It can also provide ownership and management a chance to see the work of routesetters within the structured environment of a clinic.

·      There will typically be 15-20 routes and between 20- 30 boulder problems set during the Level 1 Clinic.  Many host facilities will schedule clinics specifically in the context of their regular rotation, use the clinic to refresh the start of a new round of routesetting, or use the routes and/or boulder problems from the clinic for youth competitive training.

Hosting a Level 2 Clinic

Level 2 Clinics are held 2-4 times per year at host facilities determined by USAC, based on their location, facility details and past experience hosting USAC Championship competitions or other clinics.

As with the Level 1 Clinic, there is no host fee, but the facility must provide the adequate terrain needed for the clinic and then can select two of their own routesetters to participate in the clinic. This is determined after review with the RCCP Administrator during clinic scheduling. All routesetters apply for the clinic directly through USAC and will be selected by the Head Instructor, Assistant Instructor(s) and in consultation with the RCCP Administrator.

The basic terrain details outlined above in the Level 1 section also apply to Level 2 Clinics; in addition

  • access to a space adequate for presentations, and use of a TV or projector.
  • We review the quality of the overall facility terrain and gym amenities on a case-by-case basis.
  • An active youth climbing team at the host facility that we may coordinate with is a huge factor as they are an integral part of the learning process.

Benefits to Host Facility

·       Host facility may select up to two local routesetters to participate in the Level 2 clinic. This routesetter must already have Level 1 Certification and meet the minimum standards for participation. Successful participants will receive a Level 2 Certification.

·       High instructor to participant ratio (1:6) results in more hands-on time for routesetters and specific feedback following the clinic experience for each routesetter.

·       There will be 12 routes and between 24 – 36 boulder problems set during the Level 2 Clinic, depending on space allowed for the clinic.

How to Schedule

Level 2 Clinics are only scheduled at host facilities that are Championship level competition hosts, and after significant review and planning in the context of the overall yearly schedule of clinics.

Instructors

USA Climbing Instructors are all Certified Routesetters with extensive National level experience or higher.

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